…And Amsterdam by Night

From its beginning as a major port, Amsterdam was a town of pirates and sailors who spent days in the city before heading off to sea. The city’s devious and playful nightlife evolved from its delightfully scummy, nautical history. Let visitors be fooled by tulips and peaceful canals by day, as the city delves into risqué behavior at night.

While the city is infamous for turning a blind eye to dodgy acts and sales, Amsterdam’s mentality is a relaxed and pragmatic one. They figure that these events will happen anyway, so why not legalize and regulate them? Hence, the urban streets are filled with a plethora of coffee shops (over 270 in the city), dancing girls, and scandalous sex shops on each street.

Sexy and shamelessly flaunting their bodies, “the girls” (as they are affectionately known) rent spaces in the glass doors lining the sidewalks. Our tour guide presented the legal prostitution as a form of women’s empowerment, portraying the women as businesswomen. With legal regulation and a strict policy against pimps, the city views prostitution as an income and a business.

Along with the throngs of visitors, we spent nights wandered through the Red Light District. From elegantly burlesque to unabashedly kinky, from the Big Momma Alley to Tranny Alley, there’s a prostitute for anyone and everyone. Even our hostel was a former brothel, although you could never tell at first glance. However, the building’s history is commemorated in a corner covered in red lace panties and pictures of the “Dutch Hugh Heffner” hanging on the walls.

Seemingly ironic, the city’s largest church stands in the center of the Red Light District; after a weekend of delighting in the city’s offerings, sailors found the church a convenient place to clear their conscious through repentance before heading off to sea. Conversely, the church found the sinning sailors a prime target for the sale of indulgences in the sixteenth century. That’s what you call a win-win situation.

In the evenings, the girls and I ate mango and raspberries on the banks of the canal. We pleasantly breathed the fresh air, quite different from the smoky atmosphere of the coffee shops. We watched the glittering lights sparkle on the canal and enjoyed sitting among the historic apartments lining the narrow streets.

Amsterdam has an enticing air about it….come inside, come smoke, come drink, come play, come stay. As I sat on the canals relishing in the city’s seductive feel, I smiled knowing that I will be back.

Amsterdam by Day

On the most innocent level, Amsterdam’s atmosphere contained a youthful spirit. Sophisticated, yet serenely youthful, the city is more romantic than Paris. Perhaps it was the spring air, perhaps it was the fresh market food, perhaps the welcoming, yet chic locals. It’s hard to say.

SAY CHEESE -Much like my own Wisconsin home, the Dutchies love their cheese.

The locals recommend experiencing the city in three ways – by bike, by foot, and by boat. The city’s spider-web street layout made it truly impossible to navigate. Given my terrible directional skills, our extra exercise came about from walking in circles.

And oh the bikes! Crossing the street felt like a game of frogger. Look both ways and try not to get hit. The Dutch locals do find “hit the tourist” a fun game to play.

 

BIKER GIRLS –Rumor has it that locals sometimes forget where they lock up their bikes. They simply buy a new one instead.

Because of Amsterdam’s history as a major port, the city welcomed travelers and merchants from various religions and cultures. The city’s longevity depended on a tolerant attitude toward outsiders. This pervades its culture today, easily being one of the most diverse European cities I have seen (contrary to the very ivory Ireland).

In Amsterdam, there are coffee shops and then there are “coffee shops” – the former sells espresso, the latter sells marijuana. If you need a latte, be careful not to mistake one for the other. Traveling with two Seattle girls, we quickly found a favorite café for morning cappuccinos before heading out for the day. Caffeinated and excited to explore, we headed out for the day to explore the fields outside of the city.

The Keukenhof Gardens inhabit huge plots of land outside the city. The gardens and surrounding tulip farms are packed with flowers, painting the ground with vibrant stripes.

Clean and sleek, the tulips are like the Dutchies themselves – tasteful and stunning, but never extravagant.

Come as you are. Relax. Slow down. Stay a while.